Sitar Check List

Here is my check list for things to look for when buying a sitar. Keep in mind that a sitar may take a few years to find its voice. Teak sitars may take even longer. This is compounded by the fact that sitars are often on setup properly to be played when they are offerred for sale. Furthermore, the strings are usually the worse quality, as a rule, unless the dealer has restrung it for you. Be patient and not be too quick to judge. Be sure to check the Sitar Gallery for some nice pics of sitars and sitar parts:

The Sitar

• Sound is the most important thing, have them play it.
• 
  Tight fitting pegs that hold the tune. Do a few "meends" (bend the string) to test it.

• Fiberglass case is best because they are lighter and take up less room. They also fit the sitar almost perfectly so that they really protect it. It is better to get the sitar with the case. There are a few different qualities for fiberglass cases. Some are very thick and heavy and meant for flying around the world touring. Others are less thick and lighter, yet still strong. They usually stand up ok to flying, but if you travel a lot, get a heavy duty one. Keep in mind that the hardware always sucks!
• 
  Neck must be straight, look down the top.

• Wood should be aged, preferably centre cut stock. I don't know how you can verify this, but the wood guys know. Some dealers know too.
• Thick seasoned main gourd. The tap test should tell you how thick a gourd is, but the response when played tells you how seasoned it is. A really spongey sound is probably due to an older gourd.
• The bridge should be deer horn, bone bridge or ebony. Although some of the synthetic bridges sound good and last a lot longer than natural products. If you have an opportunity to order 2 bridges with your sitar, DO IT! You will need another one in a few years.
• Heavy duty frets that are tied properly, e.g. nice and tight. Watch out for the drop-of-shellac-on-the-fret-thread trick. It makes the frets seem tight, but when you have to move them --and you will-- it is hard to move and they may be very loose afterwards.
• Action. Make sure the "action" is not too low. By "action", I mean the gap between the highest fret and the main string. I think something around 11 mm is best because you will have to reshape the jawar later and it will get closer with every reshaping. Do the "pinky test". If you can fit your pinky between the wire and the highest fret, you are ok. If the action is too low, the strings will rub on the frets after you resurface your jawari (and you will have to do this fairly often).
• Size. If you are tall, you will be hunched over when playing. This will cause pain in the end, so get one with a larger main gourd and preferably a wider tabli, e.g. 14".
• Research the sound so that you know what you want, e.g. listen to these artists and decide which sound you like best. Don't get too preoccupied, because this can be changed by someone qualified later on, but it is best to do it right initially. See the Sitar Performances section for the different styles of sitars.
• Jawari must be properly done. This is a difficult skill to master, so it is better that it is done initially.

"Ravi Shankar or Nikil Banerjee" Style Specific

• Get a real upper gourd. The sound will be better.
• Make sure the carvings are clean.
• Penwork. You will have some options here as far as design and number of colours. I prefer a single colour, but only because Bina uses 2 colours and I think that spoiled it for me.
• Jawari: The choice for these sitars is open (RS) or half open (NB). The more open, the more twangy the sound.

"Gayaki" Sytle Specific (e.g. Vilayat Khan or Shahid Parvez)

• Get an ebony jawari (=bridge).
• Make sure the jawari is closed and properly set up. Some closed jawaris are so closed that they make little sound. A properly closed jawari is slightly louder and the sympathetic strings should resound.
• Make sure the neck is strong.
• Gayaki frets are typically thicker and more arched.
• Gayaki necks are typcially slightly thicker than other sitars.

The Dealer

• Reputable seller, check references or ask about the dealer on the sitar forum. Contact them and open a dialogue. A good dealer will be responsive and not overly obsequious.
• Look for a money back guarantee. I wouldn't even bother with a dealer who wouldn't stand behind his product.
• Don't be pre-occupied with $$ as I was originally, go for quality. Get the best sitar that you can afford.
• Make sure the sitars are properly stored, e.g. in a humid (approx 40-50%) environment. Typically, this is only a problem if the sitar has been unsold for many years. If it gets too dry, the pegs will slip, the paint will crack on the back of the gourd, and the neck may twist. I've seen necks so twisted that they cannot even be tuned, yet (in this particular case) the seller still maintained that it was a good sitar and wanted $1000 for it! LOL! I wouldn't have given him a hundered for it. All you need is a humidifier to prevent this problem. I can't believe anyone would squeek on the price of a humidifier.